Surface Preparation Standards That Determine Whether Commercial Paint Jobs Last

A commercial paint job that fails in 18 months almost never fails because of the paint. It fails because the surface underneath was dirty, wet, glossy, or contaminated when the first coat went on. Paint manufacturers can formulate a coating to resist UV, chemicals, and abrasion, but no formula compensates for a substrate that wasn’t ready to accept it. If you’re budgeting a repaint or comparing bids, the prep line item tells you more about the outcome than the paint brand does.

What Actually Causes Commercial Coating Failure

Industry data from coatings manufacturers like Sherwin-Williams and PPG consistently points to the same root causes: adhesion loss from surface contamination, moisture intrusion behind the film, and improper mil thickness. Adhesion failure alone accounts for a large share of warranty claims on commercial exteriors. When a coating peels in sheets rather than wearing evenly, that’s almost always a surface prep issue, not a product defect.

On concrete and masonry, efflorescence (the white, chalky mineral deposit) is a common culprit. If it’s not removed before painting, it keeps pushing salts to the surface from underneath, and the new coating lifts off in patches within a year. On metal buildings, the issue is usually rust bloom under old paint that wasn’t fully removed, or mill scale on new steel that was never cleaned to the right standard before the first coat went on.

Cleaning: The Step Everyone Underestimates

Pressure washing at 3,000 to 4,000 PSI removes loose paint, dirt, and light mildew, but it will not remove grease, oil, or heavy chalking on its own. For tilt-up concrete panels and CMU block, a detergent wash (typically a diluted TSP substitute or a commercial degreaser) followed by a rinse is standard before any primer goes on. Surfaces need to dry to the right moisture content before coating, not just look dry.

  • Concrete and masonry should read below 12% moisture content on a pin-type meter before priming.
  • Metal surfaces need to be free of oil, grease, and drawing compounds, which water alone won’t remove; a solvent wipe per SSPC-SP1 is required first.
  • Mildew and algae need a biocide wash, not just pressure water, or the growth returns within months under the new film.

Skipping the degreasing step is common on loading docks, warehouse exteriors near equipment, and kitchen exhaust areas, and it’s one of the most frequent causes of early peeling on commercial jobs.

Surface Profile and Adhesion

Paint needs something to grip. A surface that’s too smooth, like glossy trim, factory-primed steel, or previously coated stucco, needs mechanical or chemical profiling before recoating. On steel, this usually means abrasive blasting to an SSPC-SP6 commercial blast or SP10 near-white blast standard, depending on the coating system specified. On previously painted wood or fiber cement siding, this means sanding glossy areas to a dull finish (100 to 150 grit is typical) so the new coat has something to mechanically bond to.

Skipping profile work is why you sometimes see paint job failures that look like the coating simply slid off in sheets. The film itself was fine. It just never bonded to a slick surface in the first place.

Repairs Before Paint, Not After

Cracks, spalled concrete, popped drywall seams, and failed caulk joints all need to be addressed before the first coat, not patched afterward. On commercial drywall corridors and lobbies, this means re-taping and floating any cracked seams, letting joint compound cure fully (usually 24 hours per coat minimum in normal humidity), and sanding smooth before primer. Painting over an unrepaired crack just telegraphs the defect through the new finish within a few months as the building moves seasonally.

On exteriors, caulk joints around windows, expansion joints, and panel seams should be inspected and replaced with a paintable, UV-stable sealant rated for the substrate movement. Standard acrylic caulk isn’t rated for the movement in tilt-up panel joints; a polyurethane or hybrid sealant is usually required there. If the sealant fails within a year or two, water gets behind the coating and you get bubbling and delamination regardless of how good the paint itself was.

Rust spots on metal need to be ground back to bare, stable metal, not just scraped and primed over the top. A rust-inhibitive primer applied over flaking rust buys a year, maybe two, before the failure reappears in the same spot.

Testing Before You Commit to the Whole Building

On large commercial projects, a test patch isn’t optional. Applying the full coating system to a 10×10 foot section, letting it cure for the manufacturer’s recommended period (often 7 days minimum), and checking adhesion with a simple tape test (ASTM D3359) tells you whether the prep and product are compatible before you’ve committed labor and material to 50,000 square feet. This is standard practice on reroof and repaint projects tied to roofing systems too, where coating compatibility with an existing membrane can make or break a warranty.

Humidity and surface temperature also need checking before application, not just before the job starts. Most exterior coatings require surface temperatures at least 5 degrees above the dew point and application windows outside of early morning dew or late afternoon humidity spikes. Applying a coating outside that window is a common cause of blistering that shows up weeks later, long after the crew has moved on.

If you’re getting bids on a commercial repaint, ask each contractor to spell out their prep scope in writing: cleaning method, moisture testing, profile method, and repair scope, with the standards they’re using (SSPC, ASTM, or manufacturer spec). A bid that jumps straight from “pressure wash” to “two coats” without addressing these steps is worth questioning before you sign it.

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Drywall Repair Done Right: Holes, Cracks, and Water Damage

A quarter-inch crack today can turn into a two-foot section of crumbling drywall in six months if water is involved. Most homeowners and even some contractors treat drywall repair as a cosmetic patch job, but the material and the method matter as much as the paint color you choose afterward. Here’s how to actually fix the three most common drywall problems so they stay fixed.

Small Holes: Anything Under 6 Inches

Nail holes, doorknob dents, and small punctures from moving furniture fall into this category. For anything under an inch, lightweight spackling compound works fine. Press it into the hole with a putty knife, let it dry for 2-3 hours, sand with 150-grit sandpaper, and prime before painting.

For holes between 1 and 6 inches, spackle alone won’t hold. Use a self-adhesive mesh patch (available at any hardware store for under $5) centered over the hole. Apply joint compound over the patch in three thin coats, letting each dry for 24 hours before sanding and adding the next. Feather the edges out 4-6 inches beyond the patch so the repair blends into the wall instead of forming a visible bump.

  • Skip the paper tape method for holes this size. It flexes too much without a backing board.
  • Use setting-type compound (Durabond 90) instead of pre-mixed joint compound if you need the repair paint-ready same day.

Larger Holes: Cutting In a New Piece

Anything larger than 6 inches, including holes from doorknobs punching clean through or accidental impact damage, needs an actual drywall patch, not just compound and mesh.

Cut the damaged area into a clean rectangle using a drywall saw. Measure and cut a replacement piece from a scrap of matching thickness (standard interior drywall is 1/2 inch, though older homes sometimes use 3/8 inch). Install two horizontal wood cleats behind the opening, screwed into the existing wall on each side, to give the new piece something to attach to. Screw the patch into the cleats, tape all four seams with paper tape (not mesh, for better strength on larger patches), and apply three coats of joint compound exactly as you would with new construction.

Total dry time for a repair like this runs 3-4 days if you’re doing one coat per day. Rushing the coats is the single biggest reason patches crack again within a year.

Cracks: Diagnosing Before You Patch

Not all cracks are the same, and treating a structural crack like a cosmetic one guarantees it comes back.

Hairline cracks under 1/16 inch, especially near door frames or in the middle of a wall, are usually just seasonal movement or settling. Widen the crack slightly with a utility knife, apply paper tape and joint compound, sand, and paint. This holds for years in most cases.

Cracks wider than 1/8 inch, especially ones that run diagonally from a door or window corner, or that appear on both sides of a wall in the same spot, often point to foundation movement or truss uplift. Patching these without addressing the underlying cause means the crack returns within a season. If you see stair-step cracking in a wall near a corner, or a crack that’s noticeably wider at one end than the other, get a structural assessment before doing any drywall work.

  • Cracks that reopen in the same spot every year, even after proper repair, usually indicate seasonal foundation movement that needs a flexible joint, not more compound.
  • Use paper tape over mesh tape on any crack repair. Mesh flexes and telegraphs the crack back through paint faster.

Water Damage: The Repair Nobody Wants to Do Right

Water-damaged drywall gets patched over more often than it gets properly replaced, and that’s the single biggest mistake in residential and commercial repair work. Drywall that has absorbed water loses structural integrity permanently, even after it dries out. It also frequently harbors mold growth inside the wall cavity where you can’t see it.

Before any repair, find and fix the water source. Patching drywall under an active roof leak or plumbing leak is a wasted afternoon; the damage returns within weeks.

Once the source is fixed, cut out all visibly stained or soft drywall, extending the cut at least 12 inches beyond the visible damage. Water travels further than it appears on the surface, especially in wall cavities with insulation. Check the exposed studs and insulation for moisture with a moisture meter (readings above 16% mean the framing needs more drying time before you close the wall back up). Let everything dry for 48-72 hours with a fan or dehumidifier running before installing new drywall.

  • If the water damage came from a roof leak, have the roofing addressed and inspected first. Drywall repair without a roof inspection is treating the symptom.
  • For ceiling water stains, even ones that seem dry, check for sagging before patching. A sagging ceiling section means the drywall has lost its structural bond to the joists and needs full replacement, not a patch.
  • Use mold-resistant drywall (often green or purple board) in bathrooms, laundry rooms, and basements when replacing water-damaged sections, even if the original wall didn’t use it.

Matching Texture and Getting a Clean Finish

The repair itself is only half the job. A perfectly patched hole with mismatched texture is obvious from across the room, especially under raking light from a window or lamp.

Identify the existing texture first: orange peel, knockdown, and popcorn all require different tools and application methods. Orange peel texture can be replicated with a spray can texture product for small patches. Knockdown texture needs the compound applied wet, allowed to sit for 10-15 minutes, then knocked down with a wide taping knife. For popcorn ceilings, matching is difficult enough that many contractors recommend texturing the entire ceiling section rather than trying to blend a small patch.

Prime every repair before painting, even if you’re using paint labeled “self-priming.” Unprimed compound absorbs paint unevenly and creates a visible flat spot known as flashing, even after two coats of finish paint.

If you’re dealing with water damage larger than a square foot, cracks tied to foundation movement, or repairs on a ceiling that show any sign of sagging, get a contractor to look at it before you start cutting into drywall. A 20-minute assessment costs far less than redoing a repair that was covering up a bigger structural or moisture problem.

Related articles: Surface Preparation Standards That Determine Whether Commercial Paint Jobs Last

Matching Commercial Roofing Materials to Climate and Building Type

A flat roof in Phoenix fails for different reasons than the identical roof system installed in Minneapolis. UV degradation, ponding water, thermal shock from freeze-thaw cycles, and wind uplift all stress roofing materials differently depending on where the building sits and what happens inside it. Picking a membrane because a contractor had extra material on the truck is how buildings end up re-roofing at year 12 instead of year 25.

Start With Climate, Not the Product Catalog

Before comparing membranes, identify which three stressors your region produces in the highest volume: heat, moisture, or wind.

  • Hot, high-UV climates (Southwest, Texas, Florida): membranes need strong UV resistance and reflectivity to reduce cooling load. Surface temperatures on a dark roof in Phoenix can hit 180°F in July.
  • Cold, freeze-thaw climates (Midwest, Northeast, mountain regions): materials need to stay flexible below 0°F without cracking, and seams need to handle repeated expansion and contraction.
  • Wet, humid climates (Southeast, Gulf Coast, Pacific Northwest): drainage design and mold/algae resistance matter as much as the membrane itself.
  • High-wind zones (coastal areas, tornado corridors): wind uplift rating and fastening pattern matter more than the membrane brand.

Most buildings deal with two or three of these at once. A commercial building in Chicago needs both freeze-thaw flexibility and wind resistance off Lake Michigan gusts.

How the Main Membrane Types Actually Perform

TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin) dominates new commercial installs for a reason: white TPO reflects up to 80% of solar radiation, which helps in hot climates, and heat-welded seams run stronger than adhered seams in wind events. Standard thickness runs 45 to 60 mils, and 60-mil membranes hold up better against foot traffic and hail. TPO underperforms in extreme cold because some formulations become brittle below -40°F, though manufacturers have improved cold-weather blends in the last decade.

EPDM (rubber membrane) has a 40-plus year track record in cold and moderate climates. It stays flexible in low temperatures and costs less per square foot than TPO or PVC, typically $4.50 to $8 installed versus $5.50 to $9.50 for TPO. Its weakness is seams: adhesive-bonded seams degrade faster than heat-welded ones, and black EPDM absorbs heat, which is a liability in the Sun Belt.

PVC handles chemical exposure better than TPO or EPDM, which matters for restaurants venting grease, manufacturing plants, or buildings near industrial exhaust. It also resists standing water well. PVC costs more, often $6 to $11 per square foot installed, but restaurant groups and food processing facilities often specify it anyway because of grease resistance.

Modified bitumen (torch-down or self-adhered) works well on smaller commercial roofs and additions where multiple layers add redundancy. It performs reliably in cold climates and handles foot traffic better than single-ply membranes, making it a common choice for roofs with rooftop mechanical access.

Metal roofing (standing seam) suits sloped commercial roofs and shows up often on retail buildings, churches, and schools. It handles snow load and wind well, lasts 40 to 60 years, and costs more upfront ($7 to $14 per square foot) but requires less maintenance over the building’s life.

Match the Roof to the Building’s Job

A warehouse with minimal rooftop equipment and a large open span has different needs than a restaurant with a commercial kitchen exhausting grease-laden air through the roof deck.

  • Warehouses and distribution centers: large flat expanses favor TPO or EPDM for cost efficiency, with reinforced membrane at loading dock canopies where forklift and truck traffic vibration transfers to the structure.
  • Restaurants and food service: PVC around grease exhaust penetrations, or a hybrid approach with PVC near kitchen vents and TPO elsewhere.
  • Multi-tenant office and retail: TPO for reflectivity and lower utility costs, especially in buildings where the roof accounts for 25% or more of total exterior surface.
  • Manufacturing and industrial: check for chemical exhaust, exposure to solvents, and rooftop equipment weight before choosing between PVC and reinforced EPDM.
  • Schools and municipal buildings: metal roofing or modified bitumen for longevity, since these buildings often stay in service 50 years or longer and budget cycles don’t allow for frequent re-roofing.

Slope, Drainage, and Insulation Change the Equation

Flat roofs (slopes under 2%) need internal drains or scuppers sized for your region’s peak rainfall intensity, not just annual totals. A roof drainage system built for 3 inches per hour won’t keep up during a Gulf Coast downpour that dumps 5 inches in 60 minutes. Undersized drainage causes ponding, and ponding water shortens membrane life regardless of which material sits underneath it.

Insulation R-value requirements vary by climate zone under ASHRAE 90.1 and local energy codes. Commercial roofs in northern climates often require R-30 or higher, while southern climates may only mandate R-20, though adding more insulation improves cooling performance and often pays back within 5 to 7 years through reduced HVAC load.

Look at 20-Year Cost, Not Installation Price

A cheaper membrane that needs recoating every 8 years and full replacement at year 15 often costs more than a premium system lasting 25 to 30 years. Ask contractors for total cost of ownership estimates that include expected maintenance intervals, recoating costs, and manufacturer warranty terms (most TPO and PVC warranties run 15 to 20 years, EPDM often 20 to 30 years, and metal roofing 30 to 50 years). Factor in energy savings too: a reflective roof in a hot climate can cut cooling costs by 10 to 20% annually, which adds up over a 20-year hold.

Get a roof consultant to pull your building’s historical energy bills, current roof age, and local wind/snow load requirements before requesting bids. That data turns a vague “what roof should I get” conversation into a specific comparison between two or three systems that actually fit your climate, your building type, and your budget over the roof’s full lifespan.

Related articles: Drywall Repair Done Right: Holes, Cracks, and Water Damage

Epoxy Flooring for Garage Floors: Why It’s the Best Choice

Your garage floor is subjected to a lot of wear and tear, from vehicle traffic and heavy equipment to spills and constant foot traffic. Therefore, choosing the right flooring material for your garage is crucial. While there are several options available, epoxy flooring has emerged as the top choice for garage floors. In this article, we’ll explore the many reasons why epoxy flooring is considered the best option for garage floors. 

Understanding Epoxy Flooring 

Epoxy flooring is a versatile and durable flooring solution that’s made by mixing epoxy resin with a hardener. When applied to a prepared concrete surface, it creates a tough, seamless, and glossy finish. Epoxy flooring is widely used in various settings, including garages, commercial spaces, industrial facilities, and even residential interiors. 

The Advantages of Epoxy Flooring for Garage Floors 

When it comes to garage floors, epoxy stands out as the preferred option for several compelling reasons: 

1. Durability: 

One of the most significant advantages of epoxy flooring is its exceptional durability. Epoxy coatings can withstand the heavy loads, impacts, and abrasions typically encountered in garages. Whether you park your car, store heavy tools, or engage in DIY projects, epoxy can handle it all. 

2. Resistance to Stains and Chemicals: 

Garages are prone to spills and stains, especially from oil, gasoline, and other automotive fluids. Epoxy flooring is highly resistant to these substances, making cleanup a breeze and preventing unsightly stains. 

3. Easy Maintenance: 

Epoxy-coated garage floors are incredibly easy to clean and maintain. Their smooth, non-porous surface prevents dirt and debris from penetrating, allowing you to sweep, mop, or hose down the floor with ease. 

4. Enhanced Safety: 

Safety is paramount in a garage, where slips and falls can occur. Epoxy flooring can be customized with slip-resistant additives to improve traction and reduce the risk of accidents, even when the floor is wet. 

5. Aesthetic Versatility: 

Epoxy offers a wide range of design possibilities. You can choose from various colors, patterns, and textures to create a garage floor that complements your style and enhances the overall look of your space. 

6. Longevity: 

When professionally installed and adequately maintained, epoxy garage floors can last for many years. This longevity reduces the need for frequent repairs or replacements, making it a cost-effective choice in the long run. 

7. Increased Property Value: 

An epoxy-coated garage floor can add value to your home. Prospective buyers often view it as an attractive and practical feature, which can make your property more appealing. 

8. Resistance to Moisture and Cracking: 

Epoxy flooring creates a moisture-resistant barrier that helps protect your concrete floor from water damage. Additionally, it helps prevent concrete cracking and spalling, which can be common issues in garages. 

9. Quick Installation: 

Epoxy flooring can be installed relatively quickly compared to some other flooring options. You can have your garage back in use within a few days, minimizing disruption to your daily routine. 

10. Customization: 

– Epoxy coatings allow for a high level of customization. You can incorporate design elements, such as logos or patterns, to create a unique and personalized garage floor. 

Choosing the Right Epoxy Flooring Installer 

To fully enjoy the benefits of epoxy garage flooring, it’s essential to choose the right installer. Here are some key factors to consider when selecting a professional epoxy flooring installer: 

1. Experience and Expertise: 

Look for installers with a proven track record and extensive experience in epoxy flooring installations. Ask for examples of their previous work. 

2. Licensing and Insurance: 

Ensure that the installer is properly licensed and insured, providing protection in case of accidents or damage during the project. 

3. Portfolio and References: 

Request to see examples of their previous epoxy flooring projects and ask for references from satisfied customers to gauge the quality of their work. 

4. Transparent Pricing: 

Choose an installer who provides a detailed breakdown of costs, including materials and labor, and offers transparent pricing. 

5. Warranty: 

Inquire about the warranty offered for their epoxy garage floor installations. A reputable installer should stand behind their work. 

Conclusion 

When it comes to garage floors, epoxy flooring is undoubtedly the best choice due to its outstanding durability, resistance to stains and chemicals, easy maintenance, and aesthetic versatility. Whether you’re looking to enhance the functionality of your garage or simply want to transform its appearance, epoxy garage flooring offers numerous benefits. Partnering with a professional epoxy flooring installer ensures a flawless result, allowing you to enjoy the advantages of epoxy for years to come. Invest in the best for your garage floor by choosing epoxy flooring, and experience the difference it can make in both aesthetics and performance. 

Related articles: Matching Commercial Roofing Materials to Climate and Building Type

What You Should Know When Choosing a General Contractor

With the arrival of spring and the start of a new construction season, you may be thinking about renovating your home. Perhaps you want to build a deck or expand your home to accommodate growing family members. Whatever your plans, you’ll need to get it done sooner rather than later. That means it’s time to look for a general contractor (also known as a building contractor) — someone who specializes in managing large-scale construction projects, such as renovating or expanding a home. If you’ve never worked with a general contractor before, you might be wondering what distinguishes them from other tradesmen. Let us explain: general contractors are the managers of larger-than-life construction projects that require expertise in various fields. They oversee everything from site planning and design, through permitting, scheduling and budgeting all the way through to completion — after which they take responsibility for making sure everything is working properly for years to come.

What is a general contractor?

A general contractor is a specialized type of construction professional that takes responsibility for managing large-scale construction projects. They oversee everything from beginning to end, taking care of scheduling and budgeting all the way through to completion. General contractors make sure that everything is ready to happen when they say it will happen. Since they oversee everything from the planning stages, they have a good idea of what their project will entail. This allows them to manage their budgets and schedules effectively so that things don’t get out of hand. If you’re thinking about hiring a general contractor for a project, there are some things you should know about these professionals: They usually specialize in a certain field of construction or trade, such as carpentry or plumbing They take care of all aspects of the job logistics including permits, design, scheduling and budgeting Their experience in managing large-scale projects makes them well suited for high-stress jobs like renovation or expansion

Before choosing a general contractor, you should ask yourself:

1. What type of construction project are you looking to work on? 2. How large is the project? 3. What’s your budget? 4. Do you have any special needs or requirements that need to be met, such as a certain level of expertise in green building practices or accessibility for the disabled? 5. What kind of company culture do you want to work with?

How long has the general contractor been in business?

Generally speaking, a general contractor has been in business for more than three years. That’s because it takes time to build up knowledge and experience. A company that is still relatively young might be lacking in experience and could also not have a long history of working on projects like yours. A general contractor should also be bonded and licensed. This ensures that if your project goes wrong, the general contractor will take responsibility for any damage caused to you or your home during construction. A good sign that a general contractor is reputable is the number of positive reviews they have received from previous clients — especially ones with similar needs to yours. A company with a lot of positive reviews should be able to provide you with an honest assessment of their work so you can make sure you’re making the right choice for your home renovation project.

Ask for references and do your research

When searching for a general contractor, be sure to ask for referrals from friends and family members. When you’re trying to find someone, you should also do some research on general contractors in your area, checking out their websites, reading reviews from past customers and even contacting the local Chamber of Commerce (if one exists). You can also look into what licenses they hold or what certifications they have. The best way to prepare for your project is to collect all this information before you start looking for a contractor. The more prepared you are, the better your chances of getting a great deal, no matter the size of your project.

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Top taping and sheetrock tips in Colorado Springs

If you’ve ever tried to install drywall on your own, you know that DIY drywall tips can be very helpful. The common recommendation is to purchase a good drywall saw and a tape measure so you can accurately measure the dimensions of the drywall joint you are about to joint. Most importantly, have a friend or family member help you hold down the joint, or place the tape for the first few nails. It’s a good idea to practice your technique in front of a mirror so you can see how much space you will be leaving behind when you hammer the nails into place. This will make measuring much easier when you actually reach for the tape.

Once you’ve got your measurements correct and can see what you’re working with, it’s time to go shopping for your diy drywall lift kit. Your chosen supplier should be able to assist you fully in making your selection. In particular, he or she should be able to tell you if you need to select different fasteners or types of fasteners such as tongue-and-groove and overlap. These fasteners are important to the process because you will want to anchor your framing to the drywall, and these fasteners are typically referred to as “snap and lock” fasteners. Overlap and tongue-and-groove fasteners are usually used for standard sized holes.

One type of fastener that you’ll come across is the gypsum board. Gypsum boards are used primarily for the bottom of hanging drywall panels, but they can also be used for exterior framing. It’s not recommended that you use the cheaper drywall glue with gypsum board, but many do. If you do, be sure to only use drywall glue and avoid any other type of adhesive.

After you have your supplies, you’ll need some tools and a level. To start framing your DIY drywall panels, you will need a drywall knife, a cordless drill, a framing square, screws, and nails or screws. You can use any appropriate tool to accomplish this task. Start by nailing the first drywall panel to the framing square with the nails or screws.

Framing the next panel will require you to use drywall nails or screws. You’ll find that there are several different kinds of drywall nails and screws available, so it’s a good idea to purchase a variety to ensure you purchase the right ones for your project. Remember, when you purchase nails or screws, always measure the holes before driving them into your drywall. Use drywall anchors to center the panel on the studs. You can use drywall anchors to center the panels over many different kinds of framing. Anchoring your panels properly will ensure an even panel which will reduce the possibility of your drywall falling during windy or moist conditions. These are all proper techniques used by some of the best drywall contractors, even when they are performing drywall repair

Once you’ve secured each panel to the studs with drywall anchors, you can proceed to the next step of the framing process. This next part is called clipping. This involves removing the trim around the edges of the drywall area. You’ll find that a cordless drill is an excellent tool to use when cutting the trim due to its ability to penetrate the drywall.

Clip the excess drywall nails or screws from the wall. Use the screwdriver to pry the drywall nails or screws out from the wall. You will probably need to work in small areas to remove as much of the drywall as possible without damaging the drywall material. If you have a bit of a problem with stripping, you can purchase a strip of drywall which will serve as a temporary fix. Once you have the nails or screws out, you will be left with a clean, open frame which will allow you to continue with your installation.

Once the screws are out, it’s time to replace them. Although you may have to purchase new drywall nails and screws, the most important part of the job is to re-caulk the joints between the exterior sheetrock and the interior drywall. The caulking can be purchased at any home improvement center. After you’ve caulked the joints, you should put one more layer of joint compound between the sheetrock and the drywall. This extra joint compound will make the drywall stay in place and provide extra strength to the drywall as you apply it.

Related articles: What You Should Know When Choosing a General Contractor

Build-up Roofing For Business – What Is It? What Are the Pros and Cons? Albany Roofing has some ideas

Building up a roof is one of the most common roofing systems used on low-sloped or flat roofs, mostly for commercial buildings. Its name comes from the multilayers of materials that create a seamless, waterproof roof. These flat roofs include several components, and they can offer you a number of benefits. Here, we’ll cover everything you need to know about BURs-pros and cons-so you can decide to install one or not!

BUR – what is it?

Flat roofing materials that are built-up are called built-up roofing systems, or BURs. A variety of materials are applied to create the final result, including bitumen, felt, asphalt, and other materials. Typically, they are applied layer by layer and are relatively easy and quick to install. Over the past century, BURs have also been used as a flat roofing material. Despite these changes and morphs, they are still an advantageous and effective material to use for a flat roof.

Why is BUR useful?

It’s great for roofs that have heavy traffic (like commercial buildings), since built-up roofs are easy to install and provide long-term stability against harsh weather conditions like wind and rain. The investment lasts for many years, and they provide excellent durability. Building up a roof can be done in many ways, and using many materials is not a requirement. Here’s a basic example of what goes into a standard BUR:

Insulated Layer

Roofing insulation is installed above the roof decking and roof sheathing. Keeping the roof sheathing moist and warm, rigid foam insulation makes sure your building is protected from the cold. Underlying the roof sheathing with insulation is less effective.

Asphalt

BURs commonly use asphalt as the first layer, but coal tar or cold-applied adhesive can also be used. Heat is applied to the asphalt prior to spreading it flat and evenly across the roof surface with a mop or some other type of spreading tool.

Cover Board

In addition to providing extra durability under the asphalt layer, the cover board is usually made from lightweight, assembled composite material. In addition to creating a flat surface on which to build layers of asphalt and plywood, it helps with water resistance and longevity.

Asphalt & Ply Sheets

A layer of hot asphalt is laid down, followed by a sheet of single-ply asphalt, followed by another layer of asphalt and a sheet of single-ply asphalt, and so on until three to four layers of each are in place. You need to alternate the layers of your roof to prevent it from being damaged by strong winds, heavy rains, or extremely high or low temperatures.

Roof coating that reflects light

It is crucial for protecting against ultraviolet light to have this layer. Today, most commercial roofs have a highly reflective top layer, allowing them to reflect as much as possible of the sun’s ultraviolet rays, keeping your roof cooler and keeping your energy bills low.

Gravel

Lastly, the gravel roof is covered with a layer of gravel, usually about an inch thick, according to your preference. Providing this top layer with corrosion protection and debris protection is the ultimate goal. Moreover, gravel protects the layers beneath, so they last longer and require fewer repairs because of the heavy blow of severe weather.

Building up a roof’s pros:

Building up a roof on a flat or low-slope roof is a good idea because of its versatility and excellent water repellency. As they are constructed with heavy materials, they offer protection against the elements like wind and rain as well. Because of this, you will have fewer repair needs down the road.

Weatherproofing at its best

Your roof is sure to withstand even the harshest weather conditions thanks to its multi-layered design. In case you install and maintain your asphalt and bitumen properly, your roof will be watertight to prevent water from leaking inside.

Protection from UV rays

Reflective coatings on top of your roof will provide protection from harsh UV rays, which otherwise heat up your roof and make your HVAC work harder, and wear down the materials on your roof.

Flame-retardant

A high amount of heat is necessary to ignite Tar, making it extremely flame-resistant. Consequently, you can rest easy knowing your building has some safeguards against fire spreading quickly if a fire spreads on your roof.

Low-Maintenance

Built-up roofs require very little maintenance. With proper installation and minimal maintenance, a built-up roof can last 20 to 40 years. Every year, you need to make sure there are no cracks, holes, or pools of water. A few repairs may be necessary over its lifetime, but a whole replacement will not be necessary until many years down the road.

Installable and maintainable at an affordable price

Built-up roofs are among the most economical flat roofing materials. The cost of a roof replacement depends on many variables, including the materials used, the location, and which contractor you hire. Considering its long lifespan, ceramic tiles are one of the most cost-effective materials, even though their prices can range from $250 to $800.

A built-up roof’s Cons:

The downside to built-up roofing is its general wear and tear and the possibility of storm damage, despite its affordability and long lifespan. One roofer Albany NY has to offer, has agreed with these claims, for both commercial roofing and residential roofing projects.

Cracks

Built-up roofs are frequently damaged by freeze-thaw cycles. Before starting any job, you should check whether your warranty covers workmanship when cracks develop in your BUR.

Water Pooling:

It is possible for your flat roof to pond water if it experiences heavy rain that passes unchecked. A water leak can eventually damage or weaken structural components in built-up roofs.

Blistering:

The last thing you want is a leaking roof paired with a hot sun causing blisters. Built-up roofs are more prone to tearing when they have blisters, especially in areas with high foot traffic. You should deal with it right away since it is dangerous.

During installation, maintenance, and periodic inspections, built-up roofs can avoid most of their downsides. Built-up roofing is an excellent choice if you want a durable roof for a reasonable price.

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